From Biodegradable to Compostable: Insights into the Fashion Business

In recent years, the fashion industry has experienced a seismic shift toward sustainability, driven by rising environmental awareness and consumer demand for ethical practices. Among the buzzwords reshaping fashion’s ecological narrative are biodegradable and compostable—terms often used interchangeably but carrying distinct environmental implications. As we transition from biodegradable claims to truly compostable solutions, the fashion business is witnessing a new era of innovation, responsibility, and opportunity.

Understanding the Difference: Biodegradable vs. Compostable

Biodegradable refers to materials that can be broken down by natural organisms such as bacteria or fungi into water, carbon dioxide, and biomass. However, this process can take an indefinite amount of time and does not guarantee non-toxic residues. Compostable, on the other hand, implies that a material can decompose under specific conditions (usually in industrial composting facilities) into non-toxic, nutrient-rich compost within a defined time frame—typically 90 days (European Bioplastics, 2021).

While all compostable materials are biodegradable, not all biodegradable materials are compostable. For instance, a garment marketed as biodegradable may leave behind microplastics or require decades to degrade, especially in landfills. Compostable fashion products, by contrast, are designed to return to the earth safely and swiftly.

Why the Shift Matters in Fashion

The fashion industry is one of the world’s most resource-intensive sectors, responsible for approximately 10% of global carbon emissions and 20% of wastewater production (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). The rise of fast fashion exacerbates the problem, leading to billions of garments ending up in landfills each year.

In this context, compostable materials offer a tangible solution to reduce fashion’s ecological footprint. Unlike traditional synthetics or even “biodegradable” alternatives, compostable fabrics eliminate waste without requiring complex recycling systems or prolonged degradation timelines.

Real-World Application: Compostable Fashion in Practice

Several pioneering brands have already embraced compostable materials. For example, PANGAIA, a materials science company, introduced garments made from FLWRDWN™, a compostable down-fill alternative made from wildflowers. Similarly, Stella McCartney collaborates with biotech companies like Bolt Threads to explore Mylo, a mycelium-based leather alternative that is fully compostable under the right conditions.

Even mainstream retailers are beginning to integrate compostable packaging and hang tags as part of their broader sustainability commitments. This holistic approach—from materials to packaging—reflects a growing recognition that sustainability must encompass every touchpoint of the fashion supply chain.

Consumer Behavior and Perception

One of the key drivers behind the move toward compostable fashion is changing consumer perception. According to a 2021 report by McKinsey & Company, 67% of consumers now consider the use of sustainable materials to be an important purchasing factor. Moreover, Gen Z consumers—who will soon dominate the luxury and fast fashion markets—are particularly sensitive to greenwashing and demand authenticity in sustainability claims.

However, research shows that consumer understanding of compostability remains limited. A 2021 study published in Sustainability found that many shoppers confuse compostable, biodegradable, and recyclable terms, often assuming they have the same environmental benefits (Navas et al., 2021). This highlights the need for better labeling, education, and transparency in sustainable fashion communication.

Business Benefits of Compostable Innovation

For fashion businesses, transitioning to compostable materials is not just an environmental imperative—it’s also a strategic move.

1. Brand Differentiation

In an oversaturated market, compostable credentials offer a unique value proposition. Brands that can demonstrate authentic sustainability—not just performative greenwashing—gain trust and loyalty.

2. Compliance with Regulations

Governments worldwide are tightening regulations around waste and plastic usage. The EU’s Single-Use Plastics Directive and various national circular economy strategies are putting pressure on brands to minimize their environmental impact. Compostable solutions can help future-proof businesses against regulatory risk.

3. Circular Business Models

Compostability aligns with circular economy principles, which prioritize resource regeneration over linear production models. Brands that integrate compostable fashion into take-back schemes, rental services, or closed-loop systems stand to benefit both environmentally and economically.

Challenges in the Compostable Transition

Despite the promise, compostable fashion also faces notable challenges:

  • Infrastructure: Most compostable materials require industrial composting facilities that are still limited in many regions.
  • Cost: Compostable fabrics and packaging often come at a premium, impacting accessibility and scalability.
  • Durability vs. Degradability: Balancing the need for functional, long-lasting garments with their capacity to break down after use is a complex design challenge.

Additionally, standards and certifications are still evolving. The lack of globally consistent guidelines creates room for misinformation and consumer confusion. Labels such as EN 13432 (EU standard for compostability) or ASTM D6400 (US equivalent) are useful markers but are not yet industry-wide norms.

The Future of Compostable Fashion

The shift from biodegradable to compostable marks a deeper transformation in how fashion interacts with the planet. It reflects a movement away from vague sustainability buzzwords toward measurable, verifiable, and regenerative practices.

Looking forward, innovation in materials science, such as algae-based fibers, bacterial cellulose, and mushroom leather, will further expand the compostable fashion landscape. Meanwhile, digital technologies like blockchain can support this transition by offering traceability and transparency, helping consumers verify compostability claims (Guo, Sun & Lam, 2020).

As the industry matures, collaboration between designers, material scientists, policymakers, and consumers will be critical. Only by working across disciplines can we build the systems and infrastructure needed to support a truly compostable fashion future.

Conclusion

From greenwashing scandals to landfill overload, fashion has a long way to go in becoming a truly sustainable industry. However, the pivot from biodegradable to compostable offers a promising pathway toward a cleaner, more circular system. For businesses willing to lead this change, the rewards are not only reputational and regulatory—but deeply environmental and ethical.


🔍 References

  • Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2017). A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future.
  • European Bioplastics (2021). Compostability Explained. https://www.european-bioplastics.org
  • Guo, S., Sun, X. & Lam, H.K.S. (2020). “Applications of Blockchain Technology in Sustainable Fashion Supply Chains.” IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management.
  • McKinsey & Company (2021). Sustainability in Fashion: Survey Results.
  • Navas, R. et al. (2021). “Sustainability Transparency and Trustworthiness of Traditional and Blockchain Ecolabels: A Comparison of Generations X and Y Consumers.” Sustainability, 13(15), 8469.
55143177@ad.mmu.ac.uk
55143177@ad.mmu.ac.uk
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